Cyberdyne A/F Gauge FAQ
(I'm not sure how other gauges work.)

Parts:

• Wire taps - the kind you clamp over an existing wire to tap another wire into it. the Cyberdyne only one comes with 2 and you need 3
• 3 Male & Female quick disconnects (it doesn't matter what kind)
• About 5-6 feet of 22AWG wire. I prefer single strand, because you're running 3 wires.
• A mount if you don't already have one

Tools:

• Wire cutters
• Pliers
• Milti-Tester (not necessary)

Procedure:

1. Disconnect the battery (better safe than sorry.)

2. The best way to install the gauge is to run all 3 wires to the location that the gauge will go, then do the gauge
   install.

3. Remove driver's side of center console. (Not the center console, but the panel on the side.) You may as well grab power from the cigarette lighter (since you're already there.) This will go to the red wire on the A/F gauge.

4. Up behind the stereo are 4 yellow plugs, the one you want is the top plug. Unplug it (it has a tab on the side that you need to hold down when you slide it out.)

5. There are three white wires at the center of the plug. The middle wire comes from the oxygen sensor and goes to the computer. This is the wire you want to tap the orange wire into (of the Cyberdyne A/F gauge).

6. The ground can be done easily, either find an existing ground, or find a good spot on the body, drill a hole, and attach the ground wire to the body. I was doing the Boost gauge at the same time, so after a quick test with the multi-tester I found which wire was the ground for the lights on the boost gauge and used it. The ground is the black wire on the A/F gauge.

7. I was using a dual A-pillar mount, so I fished all the wires up the A-pillar and into the mount. If you do use the A-pillar I suggest getting some kind of male-female connectors so you can disconnect and reconnect the wires if you need to. The Cyberdyne gauge comes with wire coming out of the back of the gauge which are stripped at the end.

8. I wouldn't put everything back together until you test it.

9. Reconnect the battery (while you had the terminals off you might consider cleaning them too)

10. Start up the car. Don't be worried if nothing happens for the first couple of seconds. After a couple of seconds, the bars should start lighting up. After around 15-20 seconds of idle, the bars will bounce from one bar to 7-8 bars.

As a side note, I discovered that the A/F gauge is only important at WOT. If you're not at WOT the gauge will bounce around quite a bit (although I've noticed that as the computer gets used to you driving it does calm down a little.) At WOT you should read RICH.

I hope this has helped. And as always no warrantees expressed or implied.

FAQ Courtesy of J T Sweet