Exhaust FAQ

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Guys, I really hate this thing. I don't know why but I do. Please let me know if you actually like it. Make suggestions on how to make it better. Thanks

Because there really isn't that much involved in installing an exhaust I will be doing this in true FAQ format with pictures rather than the usual How-To format. In essence installing an exhaust system is little more that taking off a few bolts and switching out the parts. But there are a few things that you need to know to do the job right and make it as painless as possible. This FAQ assumes you are installing a turbo back system. If you are only installing a cat-back then you can ignore the comments that refer to the downpipe. So here it is:

Q: How much of a difference is there really between the stock exhaust and an aftermarket exhaust?
A: I think the pictures should say it all :)

Q: How many gaskets swill I need?
A: You will 3 or 4 gaskets. The fourth is if your cat-back is one piece or two. If you are only installing a cat-back then you will only need 1 or 2.

Q: What type of gaskets should I use?
A: Best kind are the metal sandwich gaskets. I can not recommend using the "Roll your own" type gasket sheet because this stuff will just burn up resulting in leaks {INSERT PICTURES HERE]

Q: What size gaskets will I need?
A: For the Turbo outlet you can use the stock 2" gasket unless you have ported the turbo exhaust. In fact if yours is in good condition you could re-use it. For the downpipe cat-con flange you can again use the stock gasket if you use the stock cat-con. But if you have a 2.5" cat-con or are using a testpipe then you will need to get a larger gasket. You can find a decent gasket at most auto stores but you might have to open the bolt hole a bit to get the alignment right. the same goes for the cat-con to cat-back flange. If you're cat-back is a two piece unit then you will need another gasket for that. If it is a 2.5" unit then use the same 2.5" gaskets I just mentioned. If it is a 3" unit then it might be harder to find one but again you should be able to find it. This is the only place I might say it is ok to use that gasket sheet to make a gasket out of since the exhaust is much cooler by this point and shouldn't burn up the cardboard gasket.

Q: I've heard that the o2 sensor is hard to get out, should I get one of those o2 sensor socket wrenches?
A: Only if it is the good kind I have heard about. If it looks like this one [INSERT PICTURE] then don't get it. It is a POS. Just use a 19mm wrench. If you really want you could even disconnect the wire and thread it thru a box wrench to get the most best grip you can on the sensor. Make sure to use A LOT of Liquid Wrench. If all else fails, take a torch to it but be careful not to burn the wires . . . or yourself.

Q: Should I tap the o2 sensor hole after I take the sensor out?
A: I would highly recommend it even if the whole looks ok. The correct size is 18mmx1.5. You might even want to try and use the tap and die set to clean up the threads on the sensor itself.

Q: There are grounding straps on the stock exhaust but I don't see a place to attach them to my new exhaust?
A: The two options I've have heard and used are this: 1) Use a hose clamp around the pipe and clamp the ground strap to the pipe, 2) Put the ground strap under a flange bolt. I personally like option 1 the best although the both work. Make sure you use some sand paper and clean off any rust or paint in the area you are attaching the ground strap. Otherwise the connection just won't be any good. [INSERT PICURES HERE]

Q: The flange bolts aren't coming off no matter how hard I try . . . what can I do?
A: Assuming you have tried liberal amounts of Liquid Wrench and a breaker bar, your next option is to heat up the bolts. The first thing to try is to run the engine up to operating temps and get the exhaust good and hot. Shut it down and try getting the bolts off. If this still doesn't work you can heat the bolts up even more using a torch. If this still doesn't work you may just have to cut the bolts off with a torch.

Q: How do I prevent the bolts from being so hard to remove the next time I have to work on the exhaust?
A: ANIT-SEIZE, and lots of it. You will get some smoking and a funny smell from the downpipe as the anti-seize smokes a little but don't worry. Anti-seize is the only think you can really do to try and prevent the bolts from freezing up again. Be sure to use it on the o2 sensor since this is the hardest thing to get off and cost the most if you have to cut it out.